Singer Sewing Machine History / Šivaća Mašina Singer Singerica

There is almost no person in the world who has not heard of "Singer" and the people have held that short sentence "works like a singer", whether it is the fruit of real quality, judge for yourself. Below is something about the origin and development of this famous brand: Singer Corporation is the name of an American company known for the production of sewing machines. The company was founded in 1851 by Isaac Merrit Singer (1811-1875) and New York attorney Edward Clark (1811-1882) under the name I.M. Singer & Co. Today's company headquarters are La Vergne next to Nashville, Tennessee

Gotovo da nema osobe na svijetu koja nije čula za "Singer" a u narodu se održala ona kratka rečenica "radi k'o singerica", da li je ona plod stvarnog kvaliteta prosudite sami. U donjem tekstu je nešto o nastanku i razvitku tog poznatog brenda:Singer Corporation je ime americke kompanije poznate po proizvodnji šivacih mašina. Kompaniju su osnovali 1851. Isaac Merrit Singer (1811-1875) i newyorkški advokat Edward Clark (1811-1882)pod imenom I.M. Singer & Co.Današnje sjedište kompanije je La Vergne pored Nashvilla u Tennesse-u

Serger Differential Feed / Overlock Serger Machine / Overlovka Diferencijalni Transport

Many who work on overlock have heard of differential transport of materials, but do not know how it works and some do not know what the role of differential transport is. We must first return to the term "transport of materials on a sewing machine", transport of materials in classic sewing machines is performed by lower transport teeth (feed dog) or classic transport, in overlocks, which have differential transport, there are two coupled lower transports, their regulation is done most often with the regulator somewhere on the right side and the markings are approximately - 3, -2, -1, N, 1, 2, 3 where zero (N) is neutral, so when the differential conveyor is set to "N" (neutral) it behaves like any ordinary lower transport, both the front and rear transport teeth work at the same time (they pull material through the machine at the same time).

Mnogi koji rade na overlovki su čuli za diferencijalni transport materijala, ali neznaju kako radi-funkcioniše a neki i neznaju koja je uloga diferencijalnog transporta. Moramo se prvo vratiti na termin "transport materijala na šivaćoj mašini", transport materijala kod klasičnih šivaćih mašina vrše donji transportni zupci-donji transport ili klasični transport, kod overlovki, koje posjeduju diferencijalni transport, postoje dva spregnuta donja transporta, njihova regulacija se vrši najcešće regulatorom  negdje sa desne strane a oznake su otprilike- 3, -2 ,-1, N, 1, 2, 3 gdje je nula (N) neutral, dakle kada je diferencijalni transporter postavljen na"N"(neutral) on se ponaša kao i svaki najobičniji donji transport, i prednji i zadnji transportni zubci rade potpuno istovremeno (istovremeno vuku materijal kroz mašinu).

Twin Needle Sewing / Sewing Machine With Double Needle / Šivaća Mašina Dvoiglovka

Most sewing machines have a single needle, although some special machines have a larger number of needles, this time I will write something about a sewing machine with two needles, which is also called a "double needle". The form of material transport with a double needle is the same as with a single needle, they can only be with lower transport, then they can have double or needle transport and can also be double needles with triple transport, it all depends on what certain models of sewing machines are intended for.

Most often, industrial double needle stitches are used for the so-called outer double stitch, the places where the double outer stitch is used are various, from parts of clothing to upholstery of car seats and furniture. On clothing items, these are, for example, pockets, parts of sleeves, collars, parts of clothing with a higher load ... etc. sewing machines with two needles are used for various reinforcements, decorative stitching along the edge ...

Većina šivaćih masina su sa jednom iglom, mada pojedine specijalne mašine imaju i veci broj igala, ovaj put nešto ću napisati o šivacoj mašini sa dvije igle koju još i zovu "dvoiglovka-dvoigla". Oblik transporta materijala i kod dvoigle je isti kao i sa jednom iglom, mogu biti samo sa donjim transportom, zatim mogu imati dvostruki ili igleni transport i takodje mogu biti dvoiglovke sa trostrukim transportom, sve zavisi za šta su pojedini modeli šivacih mašina namijenjeni. Najcešce industrijske dvoiglovke se koriste za tzv. vanjski dupli štep (raštep), mjesta gdje se koristi dupli vanjski štep su raznovrsna od dijelova odijevnih predmeta pa do tapaciranja auto sjedišta i namještaja. Na odjevnim predmetima to su recimo džepovi, dijelovi rukava, kragne, dijelovi odjeće sa vecim opterećenjem ...itd, kod štepanja težih materijala kao što su eko koža ili prava koža,kod izrade namještaja, gornjih dijelova obuće,auto sjedišta .... koriste se šivaće mašine sa dvije igle (dvoiglovke) za razna ojačanja, ukrasni štep po rubu...

Different Stitches Sewing Machine / Mašinski Bod i Vrste Štepova / Oblik Bodova

Different types of stitches are used when working on sewing machines, those who are a little more serious about tailoring and sewing should definitely use different types of stitches. In the following text, several types of stitches are listed, some machines can perform all the types listed below and some only a few of them, it all depends on the model and age of the machine. 

I use the term "stitch", mostly everyone should use the term that suits him, I will use more of them (not to explain why), also the names of individual stitches are not "sacred letter", it is important to know approximately what a particular stitch is used for and its appearance and the name are not so important (basic, stretchy-elastic, decorative, small...). Of course, the width and length of the stitches can be changed as desired. 

Razlicite vrste štepova se koriste pri radu na šivacim mašinama, oni koji se malo ozbiljnije bave krojenjem i šivenjem svakako da koriste i razlicite vrste-oblike štepova. U daljnjem tekstu je nabrojano više vrsta štepa, pojedine mašine mogu izvoditi sve dole nabrojane vrste a neke samo nekoliko njih, sve zavisi od modela i starosti mašine. Ja koristim termin "štep-bod-šav", meni je to u principu isto, uglavnom neka svako koristi termin koji njemu odgovara, ja cu upotrebljavati više njih (da ne obrazlažem zašto), takodje nazivi pojedinih štepova nisu "sveto slovo", važno je otprilike znati za šta se koristi pojedini štep i njegov izgled a naziv nije toliko bitan (osnovni, rastezljivi-elasticni, ukrasni-dekorativni, sitni...štih). Svakako da se širina i dužina boda mogu mijenjati po želji. 

Durkopp 239-125 / Durkopp Adler Sewing Machine

I did a slightly major overhaul on this model of machine, he showed some of that work in the given pictures, and I will write some characteristics of this sewing machine:

Durkopp 239-125 is an industrial sewing machine with triple transport. It is mainly intended for sewing heavier materials: genuine leather, faux leather, eco leather, thicker fabric, furniture fabric, materials for bags, tendes, upholstery ...etc.

Na ovom modelu mašine sam radio jedan malo veći remont, nešto od tog posla je prikazao na datim slikama a ja ću da napišem neke karekteristike ove šivaće mašine: Durkopp 239-125 je industrijska šivaca mašina sa trostrukim transportom. Uglavnom je namijenjena za šivenje težih materijala: prava koža, skaj, eko koža, deblji štof, mebl štof, materijali za torbe,t ende, za tapetare... itd.

Needle Plate Sewing Machine / Needle / Feed Dog / Ubodna Pločica Igla Transportni Zubci

There are several problems when working with a sewing machine in the area of the needle and the needle plate. This whole visible assembly consists of several parts, all shown in the first figure: needle bar (oscillating needle holder), foot bar, thread eye, needle clamp, foot clamp, needle, presser foot, transport teeth (feed dog), bobbin, movable plate...

Nekoliko se problema javlja pri radu sa šivacom mašinom u predjelu igle i ubodne plocice. Taj cijeli vidljivi sklop se sastoji iz više dijelova, sve je to prikazano na prvoj slici: iglenjača (oscilirajuci nosač igle), nosač stopice, ušica za konac, pritezni vijak za iglu, pritezni vijak za stopicu, igla, stopica, transportni zubci (donji transporter), ubodna pločica, bobina-spulna, pokretna pločica...

Work Desk And Other Accessories For Sewing / Radni Stol i Pribor Za Šivenje

All those who think of tailoring and sewing more seriously should make themselves a nice and pleasant work space, certainly within their home, about professional workshops and plants, perhaps on another occasion. The combinations are innumerable and the tastes are different, yet there are some rules to follow, for example a desk should be placed somewhere near a natural light source, best near a window, not under direct sunlight, a natural light source is best needed and additional light in the form of a lamp to be used as needed, neon lamps give the best light source, closest to natural light ...

Svi oni koji se misle iole ozbiljnije baviti krojenjem i šivenjem trebaju sebi napravitineki lijep i prijatan radni prostor, svakako u okviru svog doma, o profesionalnim radionicama i pogonima možda drugom prilikom. Kombinacije su bezbrojne a ukusi različiti, ipak ima nekih pravila kojih bi se trebalo držati, recimo radni stol bi trebao biti postavljen negdje blizu izvora prirodne svjetlosti, najbolje u blizini prozora, NE pod direktin sunčevim svjetlom, prirodni izvor svjetlosti je najbolji, svakako da je potrebana i dodatna svjetlost u obliku neke lampe koja će se koristiti po potrebi, neonske lampe daju najbolji izvor svjetlosti, najpribližnije prirodnom svjetlu.....