Privileg 226 / Singer 155 Extra Service / Nähmaschine Privileg Beckmann / Privileg Service

Nähmaschine Privileg 226,sewing machine privileg,masina za sivenje privileg,singer 155 extra,

There is another post on the site about Privileg sewing machines, more precisely "Privileg super nutzstich", and you can read about it HERE. This time the topic is Privilege 226, that number "226" is on the side metal cover, just below the main pulley, I don't know if it's original, since I couldn't find it on the net, but OK doesn't matter, and we have a picture of the machine. The post itself will be a bit more extensive and will cover some three topics: general characteristics of the machine, grapple (thread hook) and replacement of the internal timing belt. The machine is identical to the "Singer 155 extra" model, Beckmann.
Na sajtu postoji još jedan post o Privileg šivacim masinama, tačnije "Privileg super nutzstich" a o tome možete pročitati OVDJE. Ovoga puta tema je Privileg 226, taj broj"226" se nalazi na bočnom metalnom poklopcu, odmah ispod glavne remenice, da li je originalan neznam, pošto nisam na netu uspio pronaci, ali OK nije bitno,i mamo sliku mašine. Sam post ce biti nešto obimniji i obradit će neke tri teme: opšte karakteristike mašine, grajfer(petljač) i zamjena unutrašnjeg zupčastog remena. Masina je identična modelu "Singer 155 extra", Beckmann.

It is a single, interesting model, above all the ergonomics and design of this gray machine are pleasing "to the eye", the lines are sharp but still smooth and everything is in place. We see general details in the first and second picture, the main "circuit" of the programmer is on the top and all programs on the machine are set with it, so there is no special button for adjusting the stitch length, handling is extremely simple, on the front is a schematic representation of the steps , the position marked "A" is for semi-automatic hole processing, "B-C-D" is a classic ...
Radi se o jednom, solidnom modelu, prije svega ergonomija i dizajn ove sivaće masine su dopadljivi "za oko", linije su oštre ali ipak ugladjene i sve je na svom mjestu. Opšte detalje vidimo na prvoj i drugoj slici, glavno "kolo" programatora je sa gornje strane i sa njim se zadaju svi programi na mašini, dakle,nema posebnog dugmeta za regulaciju dužine boda, rukovanje je krajnje jednostavno, sa prednje strane je shematski prikaz stepova,pozicija oznacena sa "A" je za poluautomatsku obradu rupica, "B-C-D" je klasični...


flat stitch, the picture itself shows that the position "B" has the smallest "step" and "D" the largest, freely during the work can be moved slightly if we want to increase the length of the stitch. "E-F" is a zigzag stitch, by going closer to the letter "F" the point is getting denser at the very end is over
so a point in a month (very small range), "F-G" is intended for sewing buttons and in principle is useless for anything else, "H" is a zigzag of a somewhat narrower and denser point, "J" and "J-K" are a stitch as from the figure by slightly moving the programmer towards the "K" position, the side output of the needle is reduced. "M-N-O" are stretch stitches, the machine works great and they are, as the name says, partially stretchable.
ravni štep, na samoj slici je vidljivo da pozicija "B" ima najmanji"korak "a"D" najveći, slobodno u toku rada se može lagano pomijerati ako želimo dužinu boda povećati ."E-F" je cik/cak štep, stim što idemo bliže slovu "F" bod je sve gušći na samom kraju je gotovo pa bod u mjesu (veoma mali raspon), "F-G" je predvidjeno za prišivanje dugmadi i u principu je beskoristan za bilo šta drugo,"H" je cik/cak nešto užeg i gušceg boda, "J"i"J-K" je štep kao sa slike stim da laganim pomijeranjem programatora prema poziciji "K" bočni izlaz igle se smanjuje. "M-N-O" su stretch štepovi (streč štep), mašina ih odlično radi i oni su kao što naziv kaže djelimicno istezljivi.

In the first pictures we also see a schematic representation of the thread setting. The upper thread tensioner is specific and the tension is regulated by a dot on the right side. The dot seen on the far left from the top is actually the regulator of the foot pressure on the material. The lighting is well resolved and is placed on the underside of the “body” of the machine. We still have the forward / back button which is big and great to handle. Winding of the lower thread is standard, but the disconnection on the main pulley is solved with only one round "button", a great solution.
Na prvim slikama vidimo i shemaski prikaz postavke konca. Zateznik gornjeg konca je specifičan a regulacija napetosti se vrši točkicem sa desne strane. Točkic koji se vidi krajnje lijevo sa gornje strane je ustvari regulator pritiska stopice na materijal. Osvjetljenje je dobro riješeno i postavljeno je sa donje strane "tijela" mašine (vidi sliku). Ostaje nam još tipka za naprijed / nazad koja je velika i super za rukovanje. Namotavanje donjeg konca (vidi sliku) je standardno ali isklučenje na glavnoj remenici je riješeno samo sa jednim okruglim "tasterom", super rješenje.


When winding the lower thread, if you want to do it a little faster, it is necessary to hold the spool of thread a little with the index finger from the upper side so that it does not fall off. At the end of this section it should be said that the Privileg 226 has a combined work platform (sleeve with extension attachment). The hook privilege sewing machine is of the horizontal-rotating type, there was a lot of talk about the grapple on the site, but this is the first time I am writing about this grapple model. Horizontally rotating grapple with fixed chunk is mostly found in more expensive models of machines, the rotating part of the grapple is large in diameter and the gripping hook is on the inside, the coil is wound with thread as on any machine and placed directly in the hook, no switches, fuses and the like. no, it is only important to place the thread correctly in the bearing (shown in the picture by the yellow arrow), we do not carry the thread there, hold it a little with our finger and pull it with the other hand so that the thread falls into place
Pri namotavanju donjeg konca ako želite malo brže to uraditi potrebno je kalem konca malo kažiprstom sa gornje strane pridržavati da ne spadne. Na kraju ovog dijela treba reći da Privileg 226 ima kombinovanu radnu platformu (rukavnik uz dodatak za proširenje). Hvatač gornjeg konca (hook privileg sewing machine) je horizontalno-rotirajućeg tipa, o grjferu je bilo dosta riječi na sajtu ali o ovom modelu grajfera (petljača) prvi put pišem. Horizontalno rotirajući grajfer sa fixnim čunkom se uglavnom susreće kod skupljih modela mašina, rotirajući dio grajfera je velikog prečnika a zahvatna kukica je sa unutrašnje strane, bobina se namota koncem kao i na svakoj mašini i postavlja direktno u grajfer, nikakvih preklopnika, osigurača i sl.nema, važno je samo pravilno postaviti konac u ležište (na slici prikazano žutom strelicom), tu nenesemo konac, malo ga pridržimo prstom a drgom rukom povučemo da konac ulegne na svoje mjesto, kliznu pločicu pritvoriti tek po podizanju konca.

In order for such a loop hook to perform "its job" correctly and with quality, it is necessary to periodically remove all accumulated dust mixed with grease, possible traces of oxidation ... etc. The procedure is not complicated at all and is done as follows. We pull the sliding plate towards us to the end, thus unblocking and fixing the needle plate, which is easily removed, then we close the sliding plate, but since there is no piercing plate, we will push the sliding one a little further with lifting upwards and remove it. Then we unscrew the screws that hold a pair of "tin" parts in order and put them aside together, taking care not to lose any screws. When removing, it is best to arrange the parts on a surface so that the order of return is known (if necessary).
Da bi ovakav petljač pravilno i kvalitetno obavljao "svoj posao" potrebno je povremeno odstraniti svu nagomilanu prašinu pomiješanu sa masnoćom, eventualne tragove oxidacije..itd. Postupak uopšte nije komplikovan a radi se na sledeći način. Kliznu-pokretnu pločicu povučemo prema sebi do kraja, time se vrši deblokada i fixiranje ubodne pločice koja se jednostavno skida, potom kliznu pločicu zatvaramo, ali pošto nema ubodne pločice, kliznu će mo potisnuti još malo naprijed uz podizanje prema gore i na taj način je skinemo. Zatim odvijamo redom vijke koji pridržavaju par "limenih" dijelova i zajedno ih odlažemo na stranu, pazeći da koji šarafić ne zagubimo. Prilikom skidanja najbolje je na neku površinu redati dijelove da se zna redoslijed vraćanja (ako je kome potrebno).

Finally, after complete disassembly, those "braver" or future masters on sewing machines, let them remove the lower plastic cover and unscrew the gear that drives the grapple, thus the whole assembly will be dismantled. NOTE: I do not advise this to unprofessional people, because just returning and adjusting can be quite complicated.
Na kraju poslije kompletne demontaže, oni "hrabriji" ili budući majstori na šivaćim mašinama, neka skinu donji plastični poklopac i odviju zupčanik koji pokreće grajfer, time cijeli sklop će biti demontiran. NAPOMENA: ovo ne savjetujem nestručnim osobama, jer samo vraćanje i podešavanje može biti prilično komplikovano .

We now have everything dismantled and the given pictures show the current situation. EVERYTHING should be thoroughly cleaned, small parts should be degreased and literally washed, and the thread catcher itself and the lower pair of coupled bevel gears should be sprayed with a "screwdriver" type, while the "screwdriver" works. per drop of original oil and smear with your fingers to keep it dry.
Imamo sad sve demontirano i na datim slikama se vidi zatečeno stanje. SVE treba temeljito očistiti, sitne dijelove odmastiti i doslovno oprati a sam grajfer i donji par spregnutih konusnih zupčanika naprskati nekim sredstvom tipa "odvijač", dok "odvijač" djeluje ostatak što je izgrađen očistimo i prebrišemo pamučnom krpicom, može se na svaki dio dodati po kap originalnog ulja i razmazati prstima da ne ostane suho.

Inaccessible parts of the case are cleaned by hand with tweezers with a sponge or a piece of cloth on top. YES, on some pages I read about the use of compressed air (compressed air) when cleaning certain parts of a sewing machine, some say yes, some no, mostly nonsense and amateur story, I say, one who has the ability and compressor in his workshop freely let the dust be removed with compressed air, especially the built-up parts, sprayed with the agent and after the action of the compressor clean well and finally wipe with a cotton cloth.
Nepristupačni dijelovi kućišta se čiste priručno pincetom sa spužvicom ili komadićem krpice na vrhu. DA, na nekim stranicama sam čitao o korištenju komprimiranog zraka (vazduh pod pritiskom) pri čišćenju pojedinih dijelova šivaće mašine, neki kažu može, neki ne, uglavnom priča bez veze i amaterska, JA kažem, onaj ko ima mogućnost i kompresor u svojoj radionici slobodno neka prašinu odstranjuje zrakom pod pritiskom, pogotovo izgrađeni dijelovi, našpricati sredstvom i poslije djelovanja kompresorom dobro očistiti na kraju prebrisati pamučnom krpom.

There is one exception and that is, you should not "push" dirt into a bearing with compressed air, you should act with air from the opposite direction. OK, let's move on :), where did I stop :), I, now in one of the photos we see what it all looks like when it is nicely cleaned, the grapple itself looks like new, return everything in reverse order and take the fixed plug and make a possible lower thread tension correction (easier to do when built-see picture).
Ima jedan izuzetak a to je, ne treba komprimiranim zrakom "gurati" prljavštinu u neki ležaj, treba djelovati zrakom iz suprotnog smjera. OK,idemo dalje :), gdje sam ono stao :)), ja, sad na jednoj od fotki vidimo kako to sve izgleda kada se lijepo očisti, sam grajfer izgleda kao nov, vraćati sve obrnutim redoslijedom a fixni čunak uzeti i na njemu izvršiti eventualnu korekciju napetosti donjeg konca (lakše je uraditi kada je izgrađen-vidi sliku).


Also arrange the lower gears and lightly apply to both a little workshop grease, preferably synthetic. The replacement of the inner timing belt is already for more experienced masters, and those who persistently follow and read "Masinski Kutak", I guess they have dared to do that so far. Anyone who wants to learn a job must get rid of the prejudice "I can't do it, I don't know, etc.", if you want to learn you have to start sometime, take a machine and disassemble and assemble if necessary 10 or more times.
Donje zupčanike isto tako srediti i lagano nanijeti na oba malo "tot masti na bazi litijuma". Zamjena unutrašnjeg zupčastog remena je već za iskusnije majstore a i one koji uporno prate i čitaju "Masinski Kutak", valjda su se do sada usudili i to uraditi. Onaj ko želi da nauči neki posao mora se osloboditi predrasude "ja to nemogu,neznam i sl", ako želiš naučiti moraš početi nekad, uzeti neku mašinu i rastavljati i sastavljati ako treba 10 ili više puta.

Replacing the inner timing belt is a globally complicated job, what is the "problem", a cracked belt cannot be replaced with a new one until half of the machine is disassembled and all these are coupled elements and small deviations during installation can cause a completely inefficient sewing machine, which not a single point can't do.
I advise beginners to record and draw individual assemblies, but again at the end the thread hook, the coordination of the upper and lower part of the machine as well as the operation of the programmer must be precisely adjusted. In the case of the Privileg 226, the central upper axle is pulled out to the side where the pin is located, and before that certain parts must be completely removed, the screws holding the bushings against the longitudinal movement of the axle must be unscrewed. When removing, it is best to place the programmer in the straight sewing position and simply unscrew the shaft from the worm gear of the programmer, it can be done without "unscrewing", but then the parts of the programmer move, which can complicate the job.
To be clear, I didn't manage to bring everything back from the first one, I "struggled" a bit too, that's completely normal. In one of the pictures we see a shaft with three yellow arrows, these are places that are only then free and you should take the opportunity, clean them well, wipe and apply a thin layer of workshop grease or bearing grease.
The pulleys on which the toothed belt moves also need to be cleaned, because in the channels, between individual "teeth" there can be compressed dust ... Otherwise, this model is very similar if not identical to the Singer 155 extra model. Well, that concludes this "monologue" of mine, I hope this is clear ☺"
Zamjena unutrašnjeg zupčastog remena je u globalu komplikovan posao, šta je "problem", puknuti remen se nemože zamijeniti novim dok se pola masine ne rasklopi a to su sve spregnuti elementi i mala odstupanja prilikom montaže mogu prouzročiti potpuno neefikasnu sivaću masinu, koja niti jedan bod ne može napraviti.
Početnicima savjetujem da bilježe i crtaju pojedine sklopove ali opet na kraju se mora tačno podesiti grajfer, koordinacija gornjeg i donjeg dijela mašine kao i rad programatora. Kod modela Privileg 226 centralnu gornju osovinu izvlačimo na stranu gdje je iglenjača a prije toga mora se određeni dijelovi potpuno skinuti, odviti vijci koji drže čahure protiv uzdužnog kretanja osovine (vratilo). Prilikom skidanja najbolje je programator postaviti u položaj za ravno šivenje a samo osovinu prosto odviti sa pužnog prenosa programatora, može i bez "odvijanja" ali tada se dijelovi programatora pomjere što može dobro iskomplikovati posao.
Da budemo načisto, nisam ni ja od prve sve uspio vratiti natrag, malo sam se i ja "namučio", to je sasvim normalno. Na jednoj od slika vidimo osovinu na kojoj su tri žute strelice, to su mjesta koja su samo tada slobodna i treba iskoristiti priliku, dobro ih očistiti, izbrisati i nanijeti tanak sloj "tot masti" ili kako je već kod Vas zovu (litijum mast za ležajeve). Remenice na kojima se kreće zupčasti remen isto treba očistiti, jer u kanalima, između pojedinih "zubi" zna biti spresane prašine...Inače ovaj model je veoma sličan ako ne i identičan modelu Singer 155 extra. Eto, time je ovaj moj "monolog" završen, nadam se da je ovo jasno ☺

Broj komentara: 5:

  1. Anonimno12.7.14

    Koje vrste igla koriste? ove sivace masine?

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  2. Apsolutna većina svih kućnih šivaćih mašina koriste jedan standard igle,najčešće debljine od 60-90.
    Prepoznatljive su po zaravnjenom dijelu gdje se pritežu.

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  3. Šivaća masina iz posta je gotovo identična kao model Singer 155 extra.

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  4. Anonimno4.11.18

    Poštovani, molim vas za pomoć, masina Privileg ne spušta iglu, motor radi ali točak se ne okreće i ne spušta iglu. Kvar je nastao usled šivenja debelog platna, samo je "preskočila" masina. Hvala unapred

    OdgovoriIzbriši
    Odgovori
    1. A kada pokrenete "točak" rukom, onda se igla kreće.? Ako čujete motor
      a mašina miruje, to može biti samo problem sa remenom na motoru.

      Izbriši

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