Sewing Machine Needles / Different Needles / Igle Za Šivaće Mašine

This time one "simple" topic (selection of needles for sewing machines)

many who work on sewing machines do not know on the basis of which parameters the dimension of the needle is determined, ie what the individual numbers on the packaging of the needles say.?

Take a look at an example of a standard needle for industrial machines marked DPx17 and see what which number means ...?

Ovaj put jedna "jednostavna" tema (izbor igala za šivace masine)
mnogi  koji i rade na šivaćim mašinama ne znaju na osnovu kojih parametara se određuje dimenzija igle, odnosno šta pojedini brojevi na pakovanju igala kazuju.?
Pogledajte dati primjer jedne standardne igle za industrijske masine oznake DPx17 i vidite šta koji broj znači...?

In the given example you will see the main dimensions of each needle and these are as the drawing shows:

1 Needle clamping part

2 The length of the needle to the tip of the eyelet

3 Total needle length

4 Needle diameter-thickness

U datom primjeru će te vidjeti glavne dimenzije svake igle a to su kao što crtež prikazuje:
1  Stezni dio igle
2  Dužina igle do vrha ušice
3  Ukupna dužina igle
4  Prečnik-debljina igle

Position 1 is in principle standard and the thickness or diameter of the clamping part is usually 2 mm (for industrial machines), other dimensions are variable and depend on the type of needle. The most important is position 2 and there can be very small deviations, the total length of the needle 3 changes, it is usually related to the thickness, the needle can be the same number of marks and different thicknesses and most likely the total length is not the same and this dimension is somewhat tolerant. The thickness of the needle-diameter 4 is variable and it all depends on what is sewn and on which machine, and it is understood that the harder the material, the thicker the needle. Needles for home sewing machines are standard, they differ from industrial needles in that the clamping part of the needle is "flattened". Proper placement of the needle in the sewing machine is of great importance, how to properly insert the needle into the machine (picture below)? In household machines, one part of the clamping body is usually flat, so it is easier to place the needle on the support (needle bar), so the flat part is turned towards the pin bar and tighten the appropriate screw, with the needle having to be fully inserted into its holder. (1) is a clean circle and attention should be paid to the correct placement, always the part at the "eye" that is narrowed ("a") should be parallel to the gripper_trapper of the upper thread, also that narrowed part "a" must be turned towards the grab. It is not bad to remove the needle completely and clean its bearing thoroughly because the accumulated dust is compressed over time and therefore the needle cannot properly "sit" in the bearing. The needles differ not only in size but also in the shape of its tip ...

The tip of the needle also affects the appearance of the stitch-stitch; There are also needles coated with a thin layer of Teflon (Teflon needles) and they are intended for sewing all materials through which the needle is difficult to pass, high friction (eg rubberized materials, thick leather ..), newer modern machines on which the needle is significantly loaded and from high friction heats up well, there is also cooling of the needle by a jet of compressed air.

Below is an interesting fact, how to sharpen a needle :), On the left we see a needle under a microscope (image lost), it is a blunt needle, it often happens that the needle becomes blunt, most often it is a blow to the needle tip.

When that needle is removed from the machine and carefully crossed over the tip of the finger, it is felt that it is not smooth. Everything can be sharpened, we know how to sharpen a knife, scissors, drill, razor, various tools ... let's see how to sharpen a needle ...? Very simply, it is necessary to get a small water-abrasive paper number about 300, the paper is held with the left hand on a flat surface and the needle is pulled at a sharp angle to itself, roughly as in the picture, by turning the needle a little with each finger, after a couple of passes we pass the tip of the finger down the needle and over the tip, if we do not feel any sticking, the surface is smooth, thus the sharpening is completed. Let's put the needle back in the machine and keep working. I’ve sharpened them dozens of times, try ☺

In addition to all of the above, there are special types of needles, one of which is a needle with a lateral extension, "wings" (eng.wing needle), it is also called a winged needle. They can be as a single needle or in combination with a double needle where one is classic and the other winged. The needles hemstitch wing is used when working with decorative and decorative stitches, usually on slightly less woven material, the sides of the "wings" wider threads of fabric and thus a situation is achieved that the needle returns to the same puncture site, on in this way, interesting embroidery decorations are obtained, attention must be paid to the width of the needle movement and the colors of the threads can be different, which makes the work with the winged needle even more prominent (eng.hemstitch). Try to get this type of needle that will introduce you to the new "world" of decorative stitching.

Needle markings most commonly used in sewing leather; Skin needles, leather needle point:

Pozicija 1 je u principu standardna a debljina odnosno prečnik steznog dijela kreće se najčešće 2 mm (za industrijske mašine), ostale dimenzije su promjenjljive i zavise od tipa igle. Najvažnija je pozicija 2 i tu može biti odstupanja vrlo vrlo malo, ukupna dužina igle 3, se mijenja, obično je vezana sa debljinom, igla može biti iste brojne oznake a različite debljine i najvjerovatnije ukupna dužina nije ista i ta dimenzija je donekle tolerantna. Debljina igle-promjer 4 je promjenjiva i sve zavisi šta se šije i na kojoj mašini a podrazumijeva se da što je materijal tvrđi da treba i nešto deblja igla. Igle za kućne šivaće mašine su standardne, razlikuju se od industrijskih igala po tome što je stezni dio igle "zaravnjen".Pravilno postavljanje igle u šivacu mašinu je od velikog značaja, kako pravilno postaviti iglu u mašinu (slika dole)? Kod kućnih mašina obično je jedan dio steznog tijela ravan tako da je iglu jednostavnije postaviti na nosač (iglenjača), dakle ravni dio okrenuti prema iglenjači i pritegnuti odgovarajući vijak, stim da iglu moramo do kraja ubaciti u njeno ležište, kod industrijskih mašina presjek steznog dijela (1) je čisti krug i treba obratiti pažnju na pravilno postavljanje, uvijek dio kod "ušice" koji je sužen ("a") treba biti paralelan sa grajferom_hvatačem gornjeg konca, takođe taj suženi dio "a" mora biti okrenut prema grajferu. Nije loše skinuti iglu u potpunosti i njeno ležište detaljno očistiti jer nakupljena prašina se vremenom spresa i zbog toga igla ne može pravilno da "sjedne" u ležište. Igle se razlikuju ne samo po dimenziji već i po obliku njenog vrha...Vrh igle utiče i na izgled štepa-boda; Postoje i igle presvučene tankim slojem teflona (igle teflonke) a one su namijenjene za šivenje svih materijala kroz koji igla teško prolazi, veliko trenje (npr.gumirani materijali, debela koža..), noviji moderniji strojevi na kojima je igla znatno opterećena i od velikog trenja se dobro ugrije, postoji i hlađenje igle mlazom komprimiranog vazduha.  U nastavku jedna zanimljivost, kako naoštriti iglu :), Lijevo vidimo iglu pod mikroskopom (slika izgubljena), riječ je o zatupljenoj igli, često nam se desi da se igla zatupi, najčešće je to udarac vrha igle u ubodnu pločicu.  Kada se ta igla skine sa mašine i preko njenog vrha oprezno pređe vrhom prsta osjeti se da nije glatka. Sve se može naoštriti, znamo kako se ošri nož, makaze, burgija, britva, razni alati ...da vidimo kako naoštriti iglu..? Veoma jednostavno, potrebno je nabaviti sitni vodobrusni papir broj oko 300, papir se drži lijevom rukom na ravnoj površini a igla se vuče pod oštrim uglom prema sebi, otprilike kao na slici, stim da iglu prilikom svakog sledećeg poteza malo prstima okrenemo, poslije par prelaza pređemo vrhom prsta niz iglu i preko vrha, ako ne osjetimo nikakvo zapinjanje, površina je glatka, time je oštrenje završeno. Vratimo iglu u mašinu i nastavimo raditi. Ja sam ih oštrio desetinama puta, probajte ☺ Osim svega gore nabrojanog postoje i specijalne vrste igala, jedna od njih je igla sa bočnim proširenjem,"krilima" (eng.wing needle), zovu je još i krilasta igla. Mogu biti kao samostalna jedna igla ili u kombinaciji dupla igla gdje je jedna klasična a druga krilasta. Krilasta igla (needles hemstitch wing) se koristi pri radu sa ukrasnim i dekorativnim štepom, obično na nešto rjeđe tkanom materijalu, bočne stranice "krila" šire niti tkanine a time se postiže situacija da se igla svojim vrhom ponovo vraća u isto ubodno mjesto, na taj način se dobijaju zanimljive vez dekoracije, mora se obratiti pažnja na širinu kretanja igle a boje konaca mogu biti i različite čime se rad sa krilastom iglom još više ističe (eng.hemstitch). Pokušajte nabaviti ovu vrstu igle koja će Vas uvesti u novi "svijet" dekorativnog štepa. Oznake igala koje se najčešće koriste kod šivenja kože; Igle za kožu,  leather needle point:

LR – seiječe kožu na desnu stranu, dekorativni štep na mekanoj do srednje  vrdoj koži (obuća, kožne torbe, odjeća, galanterija) Cuts the leather in the sewing direction at an angle below 45°, slanted to the right; Thread: slight to moderate slant (leather-dependent), slightly elevated Stitch holes easily visible; Suitable for short to medium stitches
LL – siječe kožu na lijevu stranu, ravan štep sa zatvorenim ubodnim rupicama  (kožne torbe, cipele,auto tapetarija) Cuts the leather in the sewing direction at an angle below 45°, slanted to the left Very straight seam position; Thread slightly elevated; Stitch holes largely filled Suitable for short to medium stitches
D – siječe kožu u trokutastom obliku, štep je ravan na svim vrstama kože (igla sa velikom primjenom) Wide triple-edge cut in leather; Straight seam; Thread slightly elevated Stitch holes are wide open; Suitable for medium to long stitches
DH – siječe kožu u obliku trougla, ravan šav za deblji konac i veće ubodne  rupice (masivni nameštaj, torbe, debela koža) Medium triple-edge cut in leather; Straight seam; Thread slightly elevated Stitch holes are relatively wide open; Suitable for medium to long stitches
SD – siječe kožu u obliku malog trokuta,korisna za kratki štih a štep je ravan i  u liniji (za mekaniju kožu, finu galanteriju, jakne, tanji konac) Round point with polished triple cutting edges at the very end of the point Slightly triangular cut in leather; Straight seam; Thread slightly elevated; Suitable for short to medium stitches
S – siječe kožu u pravcu šivanja, pravi i ravan štih srednje i veće dužine, takođe dosta korištena igla pri šivenju raznih koža Cuts the leather in the sewing direction; Straight seam; Tight stitch formation with corresponding leather and stitch size; Stitch holes are elongated and clearly visible in the seam; Suitable for medium to large stitches
R – standardni oblik, klasična probojna igla bez rezanja kože Standard round point; cloth point with no cutting effect; Largely straight, somewhat irregular seam appearance; Thread slightly elevated; Suitable for medium to long stitches