Hand Sewing Leather / Leather Sewing Tools / Saddle Stitch / Ručno Šivenje Kože

Although hand-sewing leather dates back to the very distant past, it is still used today. Skin stitching could also be the first stitch in general in human history. Man has been using real natural leather since ancient times, first it was blankets and protection from the cold, and later, over the centuries, there is nothing that has not been made and sewn from leather.

Hand sewing of leather is still used today, but how and where.? In some nations it is a tradition and most of it has been suppressed by strong sewing machines. There are a lot of animal protection associations that are strictly against killing animals and thus making any leather items. Despite everything, leather is still in trend today.

For hand sewing of leather, thicker leather (beef leather) is mostly used, thin leather is also used, but for example for changing car steering wheels, parts of car interiors, upper parts of footwear, etc.

As with any sewing and manual processing of natural leather, certain hand tools are required. Let me immediately say that there is little to buy in our country (Southeast Europe), although a good master can do a lot. One of the photos shows only one small, basic set of hand tools for sewing and leather processing, there are some who know what kind, I set them only 7: 

1- sewing roulette stitshing, used for sewing thinner skins, the tops can be of different spacing, it leaves a trace in the form of small holes which are later drilled with a suitable needle or directly with a needle and stitched;

2- holes for drilling holes, usually have several diameters on them;

3- punch holes "comb" are used for manual sewing of strong thick leather and can be with 1 or more "spikes", o sideways in the set come a few different ones. size and then combined as needed, used with a hammer blow;

4- tool for marking the edge, can be used in both manual and machine sewing;

5- clamp, corset, there are various shapes and it is made of stronger wood, the clamping part can be coated so that the skin is not damaged, it can also be made, the part that is sewn is placed next to the clamp itself;

6- this is an awl with an additional spool and thread, the principle of use is

shown in the pictures, a very useful tool;

7- various types of needles for hand sewing of leather, often with a blunt tip because holes have already been prepared on the skin for pulling the thread.

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For a more serious business, you must have basic tools, because there is no theory that a thicker skin can be pierced by hand with a needle, it can be done with pliers, but you would very quickly feel pain in your fingers, simply impossible. 

Manual sewing of leather is done with one or two needles, most often with two, in any case it is desirable to have some protection on the fingers, constant tightening of the thread can damage the hands, with masters who do it for a long time, their hands are "thicken" and not gloves required. 

The thread for manual sewing of leather is a bit thicker, again it all depends, when sewing strong bag and belts, a thick thread is used. The thread is coated with wax before use or already bought waxed. Wax threads are on sale and are often used by shoemakers. It is also good for hand sewing because the wax gives it protection, it wrinkles less when working, it is easier to pull and tightens well.

For me, manual leather sewing is most popular when sewing and changing the steering wheel. There is no machine in the world that can hem a steering wheel, a leather-wrapped steering wheel is made by hand or a combination of machine and manual. A common question on the search engine is "how to upholstery the steering wheel". 

As I said before, sewing leather for the steering wheel can be done only by hand or in combination. The combination is when holes are drilled on already prepared leather by passing the skin through a sewing machine without thread and then these holes are used for manual sewing or the edge of the leather placed on the steering wheel is sewn with a certain stitch length and later the two stitches are connected manually. 

When changing the steering wheel, the thread is used as desired, in my opinion, a thickness of 30 would be the optimum. It can be used in one or more colors. Details on this topic on another occasion. Hand-sewing leather has been brought to perfection by some world-famous masters, so when you look at some of their work, you can't even conclude that it was all done by hand. Any handicraft has no price in my homeland, but in many other countries it is very much appreciated and finished products can be ordered online.

Master the Art of Leathercraft: 

The Art of Hand Sewing Leather: A Modernized Manual PDF; (English language)

Unlock the secrets of traditional leatherworking with this fully modernized guide. Originally published in the 1980s, this 71-page manual has been meticulously restored and colorized (Modernized Technical Illustrations in Color) , making the intricate process of hand-sewing leather easier to follow than ever before. Whether you are a beginner or looking to refine your skills, this step-by-step guide is your essential companion.

Available for a symbolic price (10 US$), supporting the time and love put into restoring this leatherworking classic. 

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